Another panna cotta recipe? Really?
As well ask, Does the world need another saxophone riff? Another short story? Another poem? Of course it does. Look, if you’re filleting fugu or sautéing false morels (not advised), you want a recipe nazi with hairy calves and an I summitted K2 without O2 tattoo. But panna cotta? Ah, no. Panna cotta is a melody that invites riffing, if only because sometimes no matter how wonderful the last iteration, the simple tune of cooked cream cries out for variation, a what if . . . and because sometimes things just don’t work the way the recipe says they should, so you need to improvise. That’s how we ended up with Goat’s Milk Panna Cotta with Star Anise and Grape Compote.
We intended this post to be a straightforward duplication of a great dessert that we learned from Puglian chef Rocco Cartia, who worked with Jody during our recent trip to Southern Italy. Panna cotta, simple as can be, with a subtle little nudge from star anise. But, as sometimes happens, the magical thing you experience in a one part of the world doesn’t fare quite so well in translation. Blame it on the local cream, the USDA approach to pasteurization, or the Trilateral Commission, but what happens in Puglia, alas, sometimes stays in Puglia. Back home, our panna cotta tasted flat, and felt a bit too sturdy in the mouth. Great panna cotta is at least fifty-percent about the texture; it should quiver. Rocco’s panna cotta was like unmolded silken tofu–and ours was closer to the semi-firm variety.
So Jody tweaked. First, the texture–she reduced the amount of gelatin, then reduced it again–until the panna cotta held together, but just barely, the way we like it. Next, in order to duplicate some of the natural tang of Italian dairy she tried substituting buttermilk for some of the cow’s milk. not bad, but not as good as we remembered. Then, in a moment of inspiration, she tried the same experiment, but used goat’s milk, which left an ambrosial memory of creamy tartness on the tongue. Hubbah-hubbah–that was more like it! Finally–and this was really a minor adjustment–what to do about the plum compote, since plum season has passed? After briefly considering fresh currants (moot, since grocery stores didn’t have any) we settled on grapes.
Is it Puglian? No, but it’s a great expression of what we’ve got right here, right now. And until our next trip to Puglia, that’s about as close to Rocco as we’re going to get. And, yes, it quivers. Enjoy. Ken
Chef Rocco Cartia with Jody
Goat’s Milk Panna Cotta with Star Anise and Grape Compote
Adapted from a recipe by Rocco Cartia
Makes 6 servings.
- 1¼ teaspoons powdered gelatin
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 cup goat’s milk or buttermilk
- ½ cup whole cow’s milk
- 1½ ounces confectioner’s sugar (about 1/3 cup)
- 2 star anise, smashed into individual points
- 1 pinch salt
- Put 2 tablespoons of water in a small bowl. Sprinkle the gelatin over the water and let it soften for a few minutes.
- Whisk together the heavy cream and goat’s milk in a large bowl.
- Pour the cow’s milk into a small saucepan, add the confectioner’s sugar and star anise and place over medium heat. Stir once or twice and remove from the heat as soon as bubbles form around the edge. Add a pinch of salt. Allow to steep 20 minutes.
- Return the cow’s milk to the stove to bring it up just to a simmer, then remove from the heat. Add the gelatin and stir until it’s fully dissolved. Whisk the cow’s milk and gelatin mixture into the combined cream and goat’s milk. Blend until smooth. Strain the mixture through a sieve into a 2-cup measuring cup. Pour it into 6 espresso cups or 5-ounce containers. Let cool, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a few hours or overnight.
- To unmold, put the cups into a bowl of warm water to reach ¾ up the sides and let sit 2-3 minutes. Using your fingers, gently pull the edges of the panna cotta away from the sides of the cups. Turn the cup upside down on a plate with one edge up about ½ inch. Wait patiently for the pannacotta to fall out.
- ½ cup honey
- 1 cup white wine
- 1 star anise
- 1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger
- 1 pound grapes, cut into ¼-inch slices
- Combine the honey, wine, star anise and ginger in a pan over medium heat. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook 15 minutes until really thick. Add the grapes and cook 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. The grapes should be in a thick syrup. If the syrup is too thin, remove the grapes and reduce the syrup until thick. Add the grapes back. Allow to cool before serving.
Imagine this: you’re in a foreign country where the people speak another language; you’re thrown into an unfamiliar kitchen with an accomplished native chef you’ve never met before. Your challenge is to teach a cooking class to 16 adults who are already having a fine time chatting and drinking wine. Not just a few things can go wrong–everything can go wrong.
Puglian Chef Rocco Cartia was good sport. We not only managed to communicate and agree on most things in the kitchen, we were able to push, prod and cajole our students to produce 3 exceptional meals. We shared recipes, tricks, philosophy and a lot of laughs. His panna cotta recipe with star anise was indeed one of the stars in a week of great food. I hope he approves of the addition of the goat’s milk.
For a closer look at any of the images in this post, simply click on one of the thumbnails below.
Lovely copota and beautiful coloured final dish.
Thank you! Ken
Too funny—you should be a writer!
Yeah, well, don’t tell my wife. Ken
The title alone was great entertainment. But lucky Jody – that Chef Rocca guy. Man! Oh, the recipe and pictures – terrific, as usual.
I posted a photograph of Rocco on Facebook (very nice guy, by the way) and he shared it. Suddenly my photo began getting lots of LIKES from gorgeous Italian women I didn’t know. I suggested to Rocco that either I was a brilliant photographer, or he had a far more active social life than I did. :-) Ken
Ken, you’re a brilliant photographer and a real “sarcastic man”, who made me even looking as a nice guy too ;) Thanks and keep posting good stuff P.S. thanks for whoever is commenting good things about me..without this man you wouldn’t even see me.. :)
Rocco! How nice to hear from you. People reading this should understand that “sarcasm” is an extended linguistic joke between Rocco and me. Rocco, I’m only doing myself a favor by increasing my fan base in publishing pictures of you. Glad you enjoyed the post. Ken
Hi, Jody and Ken.
Just a quick note to let you know I’ve been spreading the word about your blog with my readers. I love your recipes and your excellent food writing. Here’s the link:
You are such a sweetheart! Thank you. Ken
Great post! I wonder where do you find goat’s milk? I’ve never seen it for sale in any of the grocery stores where I live. It’s almost a shame to take the panna cotta out of the those cute little teacups.
PS – Don’t be shy about including more Rocco pics in future posts :-)
Rocco will be back next week. Ken
I’m with you, Ken….”love sweet love” will only get you so far. You need a perfectly quivering panna cotta to take you all the way.
I originally used “woggle” (instead of “quiver”), a verb invented by Vladimir Nabokov to describe the movement of his eponymous character Ada’s breasts as she bent over the sink in the morning in his novel ADA. But, well, you know… Ken
It looks delicious! Never had a goat cheese panna cotta, I have to try it!
Give it a shot! What the worst thing that can happen? You can always walk next door and complain. :-) Ken
This sounds and looks wonderful! I’ve made a panna cotta once, and it wasn’t as smooth as it should have been, though it was tasty.
The gelatin in this last batch dissolved completely, but this doesn’t always happen, even with experienced hands at panna cotta. That’s why it’s always a good idea to strain the mixture. You are right though–even if the texture is a little off, it sure tastes great. Thanks for stopping by. Ken
Oh, thank you for the less attractive (sorry) picture of the gelatin mass. I’ve had panna cotta on my ‘to try’ list for a while, so I frequently read directions. And you’re the first I’ve seen with that much detail on the one intimidating part of the process.
It looks delicious, and I love the goats milk idea.
Hi, Livia–It took me a minute to figure out what you were talking about. Ha! I’m glad it made the process a bit clearer for you. Goat’s milk is super stuff – GREAT flavor. Ken
Inspiring! have a lot of grapes in my garden actually (ancient local varieties…absolutely organic – so proud about it:)…I should try your recipe….!
You live in a part of the world that supplied the rootstock for European vines devastated by the phylloxera epidemic at the end of the 19th century. No surprise that you have some interesting wild varieties in your garden. By all means give the panna cotta a shot – the tang from the goat’s milk would appreciate a wild grape hook up. :-) Ken
P.S. I wrote the reply above assuming you live in Missouri, but I gather you’re now in Rome, which is where I always thought Cellini lived anyway. :-)
Laughing…quite loud I must say…
Sorry…the fact people think weird things because I named my blog “Benvenuto Cellini”…the reason is very simple: I was listening Berlioz while I set uo the blog…I’m only Luana…actually living near Rome… The 40 Ha “little garden” is filled with ancient olive trees (posted some pics time ago)…fruit trees, vines ( we make something like 700 bottles of organic wine every year..just for fun & friends…)
My bucolic place…Not far away from the Tirrenian Coast…( but this is another story…)
Nearly dinner time here…I’ll prepare a Sardinian recipe..