What happens to old cooking trends after they die? Case in point: we own a full-size French fish poacher. It’s lurking in our basement like a giant carp resting on the bottom of a pond. How it ended up there is no mystery. It’s a beast, an unwieldy piece of steel, heavy as plate armor, …
Monthly Archives: July 2011
Allandale Farm Salad
If you spent this past spring in soggy New England dreaming of warm dry weather while gazing at the mural in a Greek restaurant then the current heat wave probably finds you in a bit of a stupor, although perhaps not of happiness. The solution? Get yourself to a farmers’ market – or an actual …
Life is a bowl of pickles
l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a Provençal village so stunningly picturesque, so filled with good things to eat that you can’t help but wonder if it sprung full-blown from the forehead of an editor at TRAVEL or GOURMET. Go out there, kid, and get that village. If it doesn’t exist, make it up! The town is famous for …
Artichoke junkies
For a month now I’ve been seeing artichokes in markets, both “baby” and full-size globes. I love artichokes and last year I became obsessed creating the perfect grilled long-stemmed artichoke, served with lemon and aioli. During a spring trip to Rome awhile back I was fascinated with artichoke vendors at open air markets sitting atop …
Rhubarb rhubarb fool
There’s something jokey about rhubarb, the way it passes for a fruit when it’s really a vegetable, the sexy red exterior seducing the unwary into a tart encounter, the way it can be fully ripe and–in the case of field rhubarb–fully green. Even the alternative uses of the word itself have a kind of prankish …
The Garum Factory 