“Hot-buttered groat clusters!” –Firesign Theater.
One of the pleasures of travelling is drawing close to the seemingly familiar only to suddenly discover it strikingly different, like this Puglian Barley Salad with Pecorino Cheese. Looks ordinary. But the taste – not like barley on this planet. Many of the more forward thinking participants in Italy’s agritourismo movement are trying to preserve regional variations on farm products that for one reason or another have fallen from grace or never gained the favor of larger commercial ventures. Barley is a case in point–in Puglia, where it’s often hulled, rather than pearled, it’s chewy.
And chewy barley is a delight.
Most Americans have never tasted hulled barley. To understand why not, we need to pull out the Wayback Machine.* Close your eyes, squeeze your mental self back into that fifth-grade desk and think of the wheat kernel diagram hanging in Mrs. Paterson’s classroom, right next to the duck-and-cover poster and the display of paper Halloween pumpkin and witch cut-outs. Fatten the wheat kernel up a bit and you’ve got barley. Who can tell me the three main parts of the barley kernel? Barack, Elizabeth, Willard, put your hands down–let’s give some of the other kids a chance. That’s right–the endosperm and the germ, and those are wrapped in several layers of bran; and all of that is encased in a hull.
Pearling removes the hull, all of the bran and most of the germ until all that’s left is the, ahem, pearl of the grain, the endosperm. The result is a soft, fast-cooking grain, which is just fine for the small portion of American barley intended for human consumption, since the bulk of it goes into soup or baby food.
Hulling, duh, removes just the hull, leaving the bran and germ intact. Pearled barley is the grain your mother never wanted you to date, a promiscuous absorber of surrounding liquids, which is why the leftover lamb and barley soup you put in the fridge last night is thick enough to moonwalk on the next day. Hulled barley, also called barley groats, is much more stand-offish to its neighbors. It holds its shape and its texture–it’s got a satisfying chewiness that makes you want to do inappropriate things with your molars and a robust flavor that stands up well to lamb, mushrooms and cheese, or makes a great textural contrast to vegetables, as in this week’s salad.
Hulled barley is all over the web now (Google “hulled barley,” not “barley groats,” unless you’re trying to reach a raft of Polish grain wholesalers); Bob’s Red Mill offers it online on their site. You can, on rare occasion, even find it in a local store. Four Star Farm in Northfield, Massachusetts, supplies hulled barley to upscale restaurants like Rialto (which ought to allay any fears that this is one of those grains you should only eat while wearing rubber-tire sandals). They also make it available to retail outlets like Formaggio in Cambridge or City Feed and Supply in Jamaica Plain. Call ahead–supply can be unpredictable. For a more complete list of where their products might be found check out the Four Star Farm website
I started this post in Puglia and finished it in Massachusetts. Isn’t it great when the Dorothy Principle (Happiness in your own backyard, etc. etc.) obtains, especially when it comes to food? Sometimes, as with hulled barley, you just need to find someone who doesn’t see convenience as the highest good. For everyone who prefers the softness of pearled barley, or who can’t get hulled, go ahead, by all means use ordinary barley in this salad. It will turn out perfectly fine, especially if you take care not to overcook it. It just won’t be chewy. Enjoy. Ken
*Wikipedia: The name Wayback Machine is a reference to a segment from The Rocky and Bullwinkle Show in which Mr. Peabody and Sherman use a time machine called the “WABAC machine” (pronounced “Wayback”) to witness, participate in, and, more often than not, alter famous events in history.
Puglian Barley Salad with
- 3 tablespoons EVOO
- ½ medium onion, peeled, quartered
- ½ celery stalk, peeled, quartered
- ½ carrot, peeled, quartered
- salt and freshly ground pepper
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 cup hulled barley, rinsed and drained
- 4 cups vegetable stock or water
- 2 bay leaves
- zest of 1 lemon
- 2 tablespoons rinsed capers
- 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
- ¼ cup fennel, cut into ¼ inch dice
- ¼ cup celery, peeled and cut into ¼ inch dice
- ¼ cup red onion, cut into ¼ inch dice
- ½ cup cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into ½ inch dice
- 1 cup chopped herbs—mint, basil, parsley, thyme
- 1½ cups tomatoes, chopped into ½ inch dice, or if using small ones, cut into 1/4 inch slices
- 3 ounces thinly sliced pecorino cheese
- Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions, celery and carrots. Season with salt and pepper. Cook until tender and lightly browned, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until it becomes aromatic, only a minute or two.
- Add the barley, vegetable stock and bay leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover with parchment, and cook until the barley is tender. Regular pearled barley will take about 35 minutes. We used some hulled barley that took a little over an hour. Taste and adjust seasonings.
- Remove the onion, celery, carrots and bay leaves. Eat the veggies.
- Add the zest, oil, capers and vinegar and mix well. Add the remaining ingredients, except the tomatoes and cheese and mix well. Taste and adjust seasonings. Let the salad sit for one hour to allow the flavors to blend.
- Just before serving, crumble the cheese and stir the tomatoes into the salad.
There are only a few childhood food aversions I carried into my kitchen as a young adult. Fried clams was one and barley another. I had a run in with bad fried clams when I was about 10 and I still haven’t completely recovered. Barley, on the other hand, I just didn’t like–something about the slightly slimy texture and the flavor of pearled barley. It wasn’t until I started eating Italian barley that I changed my mind. It has a full nutty flavor with a nice chewy texture. We buy hulled barley from Four Star Farm in Northfield Massachusetts that reminds me of the barley I had in Italy.
We made this recipe in Puglia. It’s so good Roxanne asked me to make it again which served us well during the storm earlier this week.
P.S. If you want a warm barley side dish, use the first part of the recipe, but chop up the carrots, celery and onion and keep them in with the grains. Throw in some herbs once the barley is cooked.
Click on any of the thumbnails to see larger versions of the photographs.
Hokey Smoke! Stepped into my WABAC machine (AKA MacBook Air) and killed 45 minutes back in the 60s watching Rocky & Bullwinkle and Mr. Peabody & his boy Sherman.
Liked the sound effects and music (http://bullwinkle.toonzone.net/sounds.htm). Now you can zip back to the past too.
BTW the barley salad looks like a keeper.
Hurray! (I was afraid nobody would have a clue what I was talking about.) Someday we’ll do a post on an Italian chicken dish, referencing Sherman and Mr. Peabody discovering the origins of “Chicken Catch-a-Tory.” Ken
Groan . . .
Sorry. I forgot to add that was when they visited the Battle of Bunker Hill. Ken
Oh dear. Lovely. Will have to make this one. Love the cheese chunks!
…and to think my wife that that big one looked weird. Try hulled barley–it’s really a different animal altogether. Ken
There’s so much to love about this post – especially the way you snuck in that little reminder in step 3 of the recipe :-) I’m now on the hunt for hulled barley!
Thank you, Laura. Keep me posted. I’ll be surprised if you don’t love it. Ken
It took me a few stops but I eventually got lucky and found hulled barley at Choices Market here in Kelowna. The other stops weren’t a waste either since I discovered a fantastic Pecorino Pepato at the Italian market. I thought the salad was delicious, and because I seem to be in the habit of taking photos of my food these days, I took one and posted it on my FB page. :-)
I checked it out–looks like a great success. Hulled barley rules! Ken
As someone whose last name means Cold Barley Soup in Polish, I’ve long been on the hunt for a palatable way to eat barley. Pecorino cheese! Why didn’t I think of that? I’m so grateful you did. Re: Rocky and Bullwinkle – there was an interesting NPR story about the show a few weeks ago. If you haven’t heard it, it’s worth finding on the archives. The endosperm explanation was timely, as our puppy got neutered yesterday and sperm, or the lack of it, has been on our (or at least his) minds. Finally, I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again – you’d make a great teacher. What an entertaining way to learn about barley.
“As someone who…” Ha! Thanks for the praise. Do try hulled barley–it’s worth going through the hassle of ordering it online if you have to. I was really surprised how–unlike pearled barley–that salad didn’t morph into something solid after a night in the fridge. My sympathies to your puppy–I’d have more than barley on my mind were I in a similar position. Ken
Oh Lydia? Lydia! What has happened to your nose?
You got me. The only Lydia, Oh Lydia I know is Groucho Marx’s tattooed lady (“Lydia, oh Lydia, the enclopydia./ Lydia, the tattooed lady…” or something like that.) Is there a Rocky and Bullwinkle or Dr. Peabody and Sherman reference I’m missing? Ken
Firesign reference. Don’t crush that dwarf. The salad looks lovely!
I was probably listening under the influence at the time. When my daughter and I drive off on a tour of colleges next spring I’m planning on bringing an mp3 player full of Firesign Theater stuff. “Why that’s nothing but a two-bit jing in a crackerback jox!” Ken
I thought you’d be driving off in a cloud golf balls.
Oh, I want this. Now!
I’d be willing to trade for a bowl of Calvados ice cream with apple compote (which I urge all readers to check out on Gourmandistan). Order the barley–I’m on a mission to get people to try it. Ken
I just got home from Whole Foods with hulled barley, but before I found that, picked up a packet of Black “hull-less” Barley. Any idea what the difference is, aside from the color? Think I’ll stick to the hulled for the salad tonight, but curious about the black too! Maybe I’ll try a vegetable soup later in the week.
You could actually use the naked barley for the salad and it would be as chewy as the hulled barley. The main difference is that the husk doesn’t adhere to the grain like other strains. In consequence, when the barley is threshed the hull itself releases the entire grain intact–bran, germ and endosperm. Although naked barley is a food source elsewhere, in the US naked strains have historically been used for animal feed–until recently. It’s really quite good for you. To be honest, I’ve only read about it (I’m a recent convert to hulled barley myself) so I’d be curious to hear what you think of the flavor. I would think in some dishes its color might quite a dramatic addition. Good luck. Ken
this recipe contains everything I love to eat…..oh my!!!
Great! Enjoy–and thanks for the reblog. Ken
Reblogged this on A FRESH START and commented:
oh my goodness, yummy, I am making this for my next gathering. Sorry LG
This looks like real comfort, heart warming food. I rarely cook with pearl barley but I think this post has inspired me to include it in my cooking. I try this recipe for sure. Best Torie
Thanks, Torie. If you can find hulled or “naked” barley, try those – either is a treat and worthy of more respect than barley generally gets. Ken
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