Poached Salmon with Chipotle Yogurt

Poached Salmon-1922

 

Previous blog posts notwithstanding, we don’t spend every free moment careering about  the back roads of rural France and Italy, pausing every few hours for an under-the-olive-tree feast.  Truth is, we almost never go on picnics unless we’re on vacation or on a biking trip.  Trying to find time when everyone’s schedule meshes during the day is like trying to plot when when three or four different orbiting satellites will pass within shouting distance–not impossible, but requiring more math and determination than any one of us can muster.  We’re as overbooked as you are.  Which is why when we do manage to find the time, having something special – other than what’s on offer from a gourmet deli – becomes all the more important.  Enter Poached Salmon with Chipotle Yogurt.

BAKLAVA WAFERS WITH RASPBERRIES, LEMON CURD AND GREEK YOGURT

Baklava Wafers-9958

Ceci ce n’est pas un baklava.  Or not quite.  Baklava cookies or baklava biscuits is closer to the mark.  Jody liked wafers, so that’s where we’ll land.  Baklava Wafers with Raspberries, Lemon Curd and Greek Yogurt.  This is an easily assembled dessert of the things you’re most likely to have on hand* –  except for the baklava biscuits, er, wafers.  Until a recent trip to Thessaloniki and Istanbul I would never have considered myself a baklavite.  If a parallelogram of baklava and a double espresso found themselves within mutual reach, perhaps a few times a year, I didn’t object, but neither did I seek them out.  All has changed, alas, since Istanbul, where the baklava is indeed something to write home about.  And bring home, in the form of an obstinate spare tire I seem to have had no trouble smuggling through customs.  Did anyone ever eat half a portion of baklava?  A quarter?  I think not, but these baklava wafers are a lighter indulgence.  You can gussie them up into the full-boat dessert shown here, or you can just eat a couple as an afternoon snack with you espresso.  Either way, this recipe will leave you with plenty of wafers even after the dinner party guests have departed.

LAZY MAN’S FAVA BEAN SALAD WITH SPRING GREENS AND PECORINO

Lazy Man's Fava Salad-9496

 

Two words almost never seen paired together: quick and favas.  Yet, both apply to this week’s Lazy Man’s Fava Bean Salad with Spring Greens and Pecorino.  In retrospect, we might have called it Romantic Man’s (or Woman’s) Fava Bean Salad because it’s just the sort of thing that two people comfortable with bumping hips in a kitchen can make together for their own romantic lunch.  The salad makes 4 servings, but these can be stretched if you’re serving it as a starter to, say, grilled lamb or fish.

MUSTARD-BRAISED RABBIT WITH LEEKS, PEAS AND RADISHES

 

Rabbit braised with mustard-0319

In the spirit of estival amnesty, we chose not to publish an Easter post about rabbit, but now that our kitchen has been picked clean of of brightly colored eggs, it’s back to the cutting drawing board.  Herewith, Mustard-Braised Rabbit with Leeks, Peas and Radishes.  In other words, rabbit for grown-ups.

Nominate us, damn it!

    Okay, it’s not only that time of the the year again, it’s the end of that time of year – the very small window of time when Saveur assembles its collection of nominees for best food blogs of 2015.   We think they keep the nominating time short just to see who’s paying attention and who’s …

NEW YEAR’S BRODO – It’s all broth to me.

Brodo for the New Year-4991

Jody reminded me that we introduced people to Roquefort ice cream in our last post  that it was a new year and time for new beginnings, setting off on a healthy foot, etc.  Okay, okay, I get it.  Herewith: New Year’s Brodo (brodo, Italian for broth). Jody and I have different views of our subscribers. I envision season-ticket holder to the Circus Maximus, just slavering for the opportunity to thrust out their inverted thumbs. But Jody sees gentle souls garbed like her in moth-eaten cashmere bathrobes and fuzzy slippers waiting for a warm mug of beef tea, a good book and a place by the fire. I hope she’s right. There is something comforting about broth with shiitake mushrooms, fresh turmeric and ginger.  It’s definitely not a meal (for me), but it is solace.  As for the malcontents hoping for braised rabbit this week, I only have one thing to say: You’re about to learn to make stock, which is not the same as broth, and if you shut up and sit down I’ll tell you why.

Poached Pears and Honey Walnuts with Roquefort Ice Cream

Poached Pears with Honey Walnuts and Roquefort Ice Cream-1834

Do you remember the first time you tasted Roquefort?  Heheh.  Me too. Took awhile, didn’t it?  Roquefort, like bottarga, scotch and uni, is one of those tastes that waits for your tongue to grow up.  Ideally, you have your first Roquefort with someone who will hold your hand, steadfast as your eyes water, until sufficient sensory signals from your tongue accumulate in your brain to ignite Roquefort-appreciation synapses, and they in turn link together in a blazing neuro-culinary ah-ha moment.  Which, given the components of this week’s recipe – fat, sugar, salt – they are sure to do.  Poached Pears with Honey Walnuts and Roquefort Ice Cream, is a very easy dessert, but one for the big people.  It is also, for those hesitant about blue cheese, an excellent introduction, since only a small amount is used, and that is mashed into vanilla ice cream.

PESCE ALL’ ACQUA PAZZA–MONKFISH IN CRAZY WATER

Pesce all' Acqua - Monkfish in Crazy Water-3799

 

Back in the culinary Jurassic when fresh cod cod was actually cheap there was even less expensive fish I prized–monkfish.  All flavor, meaty texture, and almost no bones.  At the time, recently out of college, I was working at an upscale French restaurant that served lotte (as the French call monkfish) in a cream sauce for lunch.  Monkfish had not yet gained enough traction to flop atop American mainstream fish counters.  I bought my first lotte whole from a fishmonger in Haymarket Square in Boston, a toothy goggle-eyed monster that might have escaped from Beowulf’s cave.  I paid $.89/lb for it.  The seafood for this week’s Pesce all’ Acqua Pazza–Monkfish in Crazy Water costs way more than 89¢ a pound, but it’s still half the price of cod and much tastier.

This is not an apple tart – The Garum Factory slims down.

Apple Tart-9834

 

 

This past week Jody made two apple tarts.  I photographed them both and, despite their differences in sugar and salt, thought they were both delicious.  Jody did not.  “You know,” she said. “Neither of these is as good as the sheet pan apple tart.”  She was referring to this.   “We should just republish it and tell everyone what happened.  People like it when you’re honest about not getting things perfect.”  Mm-hmm.  In principle, I agree with this, but I sensed a tremor in the force.  “Maybe,” she continued, “we need to think about what we’re doing.”  Not a tremor.  A quake.   A 7.4 on the Uh-Oh Seismometer.