This week’s Dandelion and Mustard Green Gnocchi recipe features a sauce made with wild Texas onions. My brother Bob and his wife Monika have have a small ranch, which they call Lucky Boy, in the Hill Country a couple of hours from San Antonio.* In one of those weird six-degrees of separation confluences friends of ours were visiting family in Texas, who were in turn friends with my brother and his wife. Everyone ended up at Lucky Boy for the weekend. Our friends flew back to Boston with a Texas goodie bag filled with long slender wild onions picked from the banks of the Llano River. We used the bulb and the pointed flower head (what locals call “the garlic”), and a few inches of tender green stem attached to each. Most of the stem is too woody for cooking, like the tough parts of lemongrass. If you look closely at the plate of gnocchi photographed straight down there’s a closed flower head sitting atop the dumpling in the seven o’clock position.
This is the easiest elegant dish you will ever make. Seared char with creamed spinach and sorrel. Despite my French introduction to cooking I’m not a fan of the just-add-butter-and-cream approach to life on the stove top. It’s too easy to lapse into a dish whose primary flavors are cream and butter rather than the ingredients you brought home from the store. Nevertheless, there are combinations that ask for butter and cream. Salmon, spinach and sorrel is one of them.
To knead, or not to knead, that is the question. Whether ’tis nobler in the dough to fold, or to grunt and sweat under a weary kneading. Perchance to sleep, and in sleeping to dream of gluten–ay, there’s the rub. At least, that’s the rub with this Easy Pizza with Sweet Onions, Spring Garlic, Cheese and Greens.
To knead or not to knead, what do you think?
We’re going to switch things up this week for Pan-Roasted Cauliflower with Dukkah. Normally you read a title like that and you think, Okay, this is about cauliflower, and then it’s about dukkah, whatever the hell that is. It would then follow that we’d spend a lot of time nattering on about cauliflower and give you a little dukkah sub-recipe (we’re not sophisticated enough to have a site that features sidebars… yet).
But this week the cauliflower is just a tease, a way of filling the seats inside the tent so we have an audience for dukkah, the exotic headliner who’s come all the way from Egypt, an aromatic mixture of toasted nuts and seeds gussied up with a few fragrant accents.